
This picture shows the completed model except for the engraved brass nameplate. Distinvctive features include the tiger striped name, the paw print on the bow and the dodger. The more detailed pictures that follow show additional details a bit more closely.

This view shows the hand laid teak decking. You
can also see the rigging on the genoa fairlead block system and the main
traveller as well as the various details on the cabin top. From bow
to stern the various features on the deck are: 30 kg Bruce anchor with
chain led to the windlass, teak deck hatch, inner forestay chainplate,
main chainplate, genoa fairlead block on track with 4:1 advantage adjustment
system, deck hatches and cleats. On the cabin top you can see the
4 hatches, the dorade box with cowl vent and guard rail, the mast with
three stand-up blocks next to it, the stay sail fairlead block on its tranveller,
the dodger, the cockpit with its teak seats and sole, cockpit winches,
the 40" wheel on the pedestal with its instrument pods, and the main traveller.
As usual, all the details were custom made by hand in my shop.

Here is a stern view. You can see the genoa track
with the rigging on the fairlead block. Note that the control line
for the fairlead block is led aft to a turning block, through a line stopper
and into a line bag on the side of the cabin house. You can also
see the vinyl dodger as well as the pedestal with the elk hide covered
wheel and instrument pods. On the cabin top you can see the turning
blocks aft of the mast and the cowl vent with its guard rail. Also
noteworthy is the tiger striping on the name.
This view shows the details on the bow. Here you can clearly see the wing on the keel. On the boat's bow you can see the anchor roller with the 66 lb Bruce anchor on it. The anchor's chain leads back to the windlass.

Jan. 13, 06 - The lines drawings arrived from Sparkman and Stephens yesterday. I opened the envelope before I left the post office and took a look at the drawings. I immediately discovered that the keel and rudder were "reserved", which means that the drawings only included the hull proper. So I went home, picked up a tape measure, paper and my digital camera and went over to Morris Yachts.When I got to Morris (5 minutes from home), I spent a couple of hours measuring and photographing the keel, rudder and skeg. When I finished I returned home where I scaled the drawings to 1/2"=1' and then used my measurements and pictures to add the keel, skeg and rudder. Last night I cut out and fiberglassed the backplane for the model. Today, I cut out the station frames, glued them to the backplane and then added the deck. I then spent a couple of hours planking the hull down to the wateline. I will finish planking the hull over the next few days.


Jan. 15, 06 - I got a bit ambitious today, so I finished planking the hull and built the keel. You can see the wing on the keel if you look closely. The next step is to fiberglass the model. That will take 3-4 days. Once the model has been fiberglassed, I will begin the filling/fairing/priming process.

Jan. 15, 06 (cont.) - Here is another picture that shows the wing on the keel more clearly.

Jan. 19, 06 - I have now finished fiberglassing the model. Over the next few days I will be filling, fairing and primer painting the hull. This afternoon I plan to go over to Morris Yachts to measure the deck and cabin house, which I will build after I finish the filling/fairing/priming process.

Jan. 21, 06 - Last night and today I put the first coat of primer paint on the model. These first coats of primer paint serve to make it easier to locate flaws in the surface. The next step is to begin the cycle of spot filling, sanding and repriming. I will repeat that cycle until the hull is flawless.

Jan 21, 06 (cont.) - Yesterday I went over to Morris Yachts and spent several hours crawling around on Tiger Too measuring the cabin house and cockpit, making sketches and taking pictures. Last night I converted my measurements, pictures and sketches into the layout drawing above for the deck. I am building the starboard side of the boat, so I left off things that are symmetrically located on the port side of the boat. When I get the hull ready for to paint, I will build the cabin house and cockpit. When that is done, I will paint the topsides and cabin house.

Jan. 26, 06 - Over the past few days I have been working on filling pin holes and other flaws on the surface of the hull of this model. Yesterday, I finally filled the last surface flaw and sprayed the first of several coats of red paint on the topsides. This is not the final color for the model. It is more of a red primer coat. Over the next few days I will be building the cabin house and cockpit. I will also add the rub rail. I won't put the final paint on the model until I finish building the cabin and deck and have the model ready to start adding details to. I expect to have the cabin house largely built by Monday, January 30.

Jan. 29, 06 - Since my last update I have built the cabin house, coaming and cockpit. I have also finished facing the cockpit coaming and cockpit with styrene sheet. Tomorrow I will face the house itself and install the hatch bases and make the cut outs for the ports. When that is done, I will fair the junctions between the cockpit coaming and house and between the house and deck. After that I will prime and paint the house and cockpit.

Jan. 29, 06 (cont) - This picture shows the cockpit and coaming with the styrene facing installed. You can see where the companionway will be. You can also see the notch cut in the cockpit seat to accomodate the wheel and the bulge in the coaming where the Lewmar 66ST primary winch will sit. I have not painted the deck except for about 1/4" along its edge, because the deck will be planked with teak. The glue I use to install the teak decking bonds better with the bare epoxy than it does with primer or paint.

Jan. 31, 06 - Yesteray and today I worked on facing the cabin house. I finished that today and started priming and fairing the cabin house to get it ready for painting later this week. If you look closely at the picture above, you can see the cut outs in the cabin house facing where the ports will be. Once the cabin house is painted, I will paint the hull. After that I will get started building detail components for the model and milling the planking for the teak deck.

Feb. 18, 06 - It has been a while since I posted the last update. There are a couple of reasons for that. First I had a bad cold for about a week and just didn't get much work done. Second, my computer crashed a week ago and it has taken quite a while to buy a new system and get it configured. So much for excuses. Since my last update I have finished the cabin house and finish painted it. If you look closely at the picture above, you can see the hatch bases and the dorade box on the cabin top. If you look closely, you can also see the rub rail on the hull. I have also put the finish paint on the topsides, although I still need to buff the topsides out before I paint the boot stripe. Tomorrow I will buff the topsides paint and then paint the boot stripe. I will then let the paint cure for a couple of days before I start building the teak deck.

Feb. 23, 06 - Over the last few days I have repainted the model and also painted the boot stripe. This morning I went over to Morris Yachts and photographed the teak decking on Tiger Too. Over the next couple of weeks I will be building the teak deck. The first steps are to mill the planking and to put the black caulking on the edges of the individual planks. When I have that done I will begin laying the planking.

March 4, 06 - As you can see in the picture above I have been working on the teak decking on the model. As of today I have laid out the hatches and planked about 60% of the deck proper. I still have about 100" of teak planking to mill and lay. The process is time consuming because I apply the black caulking to the plank edges before I place the planks. Most of the planks that remain will have to be trimmed to fit individually as they are laid. Consequently it will take another few days to finish the deck. When I finish planking the deck, I will mask it off and sand it smooth. Once the deck is done I will start planking the cockpit seats and sole. After that I will mount the model and then start applying details to the topsides, deck and cabin house.

March 16, 06 - I just finished planking the teak deck. It took quite a while because I got side tracked on a couple of other models. I still have to sand the deck and wash it with sea water, but it is fully planked. Tomorrow I will sand the deck out. After that I am going to paint the bottom. Once the bottom is painted I will build and install the pedestal and wheel. I will then mount the model on the mounting board and start building detail components.

March 22, 06 - Although the date on the picture is March 21, that was a typo since I took the picture on the 22nd. Over the last few days I have started working on detail components for the model In the picture above you can see that I have installed the ports, the pedestal and wheel and the winches. I have also painted the bottom. I will now build the companionway and start work on the cabin top detail (hatches, etc.) and the toe rail, etc.

March 27, 06 - Since my last update I have finished building the companionway. I have also built and installed the windlass and mounted the model on the mounting board. This afternoon I nearly finished the anchor roller and the forestay chain plate. I will install them tomorrow. You can also see that I have put the paw print on the bow. I plan to work back from the bow as far as details are concerned.

March 29, 06 - Since my last update I have built and installed the toe rail, the rub strake and some chain plates. I also installed the anchor roller. Yesterday I spent a couple of hours on the boat taking pictures and measurements for various bits of deck hardware. Next I will get started on the hatches and the genoa tracks.

April 2, 06 - The big change since my last update is that I have now installed the hatches on the cabin top. If you look closely at the big port on the cabin house you can also see the genoa track with its blocks. The cabin top track for the stay sail is also in place.

April 2, 06 (cont) - Here is a close-up that sows some of the other details I have added. You can see both stay sail tracks as well as the hatches. If you look closely you can also see the hinges on the deck hatch near the aft end of the cabin. This week I intend to finish all the cabin top details including the various turning blocks, hand rails, the mast and the main traveller.

April 5, 06 - Yesterday I got the vinyl graphics made for the model. This afternoon after a trip to the eye doctor I spent an hour and a half putting the name and hail onto the boat. The tiger stripes on the "Tiger Too" took a LONG time. I also bought the materials to make the hand rails, the dodger frame and the instrument pod for the pedestal.
April 9, 06 - Since my last update I have been working on details. The things I have added include the cowl vent and it guard rail, the bow, stern and mid-ships cleats with their rub strakes, a turning block, line stopper and line bag for the genoa fairlead control, a genoa block on the cabin top stay sail control track, the inner forestay and baby stay chain plates, cabin top hand rails, the line organizer aft of the mast and the mast itself. My punch list is now down to the dodger, the main traveller, the anchor, the pedestal guard and instrument pods, the shaft and prop and three stand-up blocks near the mast.
April 11, 06 - Since my last update I have installed the stand-up blocks next to the mast, the main traveller, the pedestal guard and the instrument pods, the back stay chain plate and the dodger bow. The model is now finished except for the dodger and the anchor. Tomorrow I plan to make the anchor tomorrow and to start work on the dodger.